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Not Quite Like the Pilgrims

by Sonya Oppenheimer

What was on the menu for the First Thanksgiving beside turkey? According to tradition, the bounties of the harvest the Indians shared with the Pilgrims included squash.

Almost four hundred years later, Executive Chef Fortunato Nicotra of Felidia, one of Manhattan's top rated Italian restaurants, carves out new taste frontiers for squash:

Butternut Squash Flan with Spinach and Fonduta Sauce

Flan:
1 lb. butternut squash pulp
6 eggs
1/2 cup onion, diced
2 cups heavy cream
3 tbs. olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Nutmeg
Nonstick baking spray
1/4 lb. grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Cut squash in half; bake at 300° for 45 minutes. Cool; scoop out pulp; pass through sieve. Sauté onions in olive oil. In a blender, puree squash and onion. Add Parmigiano; blend. Add eggs and nutmeg. Blend. Add heavy cream; blend for 2 minutes - medium speed. Mixture should be liquid but not thin. Season to taste. Spray individual molds with nonstick spray; fill. Bake at 300° in bain marie (water bath) for 40 minutes.


Spinach:
1 Tablespoon butter
1 lb. spinach leaves cleaned
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté garlic in butter; add spinach, season; braise until spinach is wilted.


Fonduta Sauce:
1/2 lb. Fontina cheese, cut into cubes
2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 cups milk
3 egg yolks

Soak cheese in milk for 2 hours. Over double boiler, whisk cheese and milk. Add butter; whisk until mixture becomes smooth. Add egg yolks; whisk until mixture becomes smooth.

Line plates with fondata sauce; set spinach in center; place each flan on top of spinach; decorate with butternut squash chips (fried thin slices of fresh squash).


Although apples were probably not on that First Thanksgiving menu, since bills of lading show the settlers ordering apple trees from England, today's feast wouldn't seem complete without an apple dish.

In the heart of apple country, Stephentown, NY, overlooking Lenox, Massachusetts, Mona Berg, proprietor of the Berkshire Mountain House, delights her country bed and breakfast guests with a local harvest treat:

Granny Smith Apple Coffee Cake
3 Granny Smith apples
1 cup Canola oil
2 cups + 3 tablespoons sugar
4 eggs (or eggbeaters)
4 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 cup orange juice
3 cups flour
1 tablespoon real vanilla
3 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon maple extract
1 teaspoon salt

Spray angle food pan with Pam. Peel, core, slice apples; combine with 3 tablespoons sugar and cinnamon. Set aside. Sift flour, remaining sugar, baking powder and salt into bowl. Make well; pour oil, eggs, orange juice, vanilla and maple extract into center; stir with wood spoon. Spoon 1/3 of mixture into pan. Then, ring 1/3 apples on top. Make sure apples are not too wet and don't touch pan sides. Repeat twice more.
Bake at 375° for 40 minutes. Cover with foil; bake 30 minutes more. Cool for 30 minutes before removing from pan. Freezes well.


At Rat's, sculptor J. Seward Johnson, Jr.'s 4 star restaurant in Hamilton, NJ, where creativity reigns supreme, Executive Chef-General Manager Eric Martin uses apples ingeniously:

Spiced Apple Ketchup

1/2 case Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, chopped
1 lb. brown sugar
8 cloves
1 bottle malt vinegar
8 allspice berries
1/2 cup molasses
2 tablespoons coriander seed, crushed
1 stick cinnamon
1 tablespoon white pepper, crushed
½ hand crushed ginger
1 tablespoon cayenne
12 cardamom pods
2 tablespoons mustard powder

Combine all ingredients in thick-bottomed pot; simmer. After well simmered, blend with immersion blender (or mixer); strain through thick sieve. Continue cooking until thick. Reserve in plastic tub with lid; will keep for a month. The ketchup accents Chef Martin's grilled, double cut pork chops.

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published November 01, 2003

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Butternut Squash

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